Fats by Michelle Phillipov

Author:Michelle Phillipov
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Reaktion Books

Making oleomargarine, 1880.

In 1902 – in an address to the U.S. Senate – Wisconsin senator Joseph Quarles described margarine as repulsive and unnatural, contrasting it with wholesome and bucolic images of butter produced by dairy cows chewing the cud in green pastures:

Things have come to a strange pass when the steer competes with the cow as the butter maker. When the hog conspires with the steer to monopolize the dairy business, it is time for self-respecting men to take up the cudgels for the cow and defend her time-honored prerogatives … We ought not now to desert her or permit her to be displaced, her sweet and wholesome product supplanted by an artificial compound of grease that may be chemically pure but has never known the fragrance of clover, the freshness of the dew or the exquisite flavor which nature bestows exclusively on butter fat to adapt it to the taste of man … I desire butter that comes from the dairy, not the slaughterhouse.3

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